First we take London, then we take Berlin!

Between marketing and a conference, Lisa had a full four days of work scheduled in London in mid-November and with Christos having just resigned from Canstar (one year's budget was all Canstar started with in mid-2018, the money was all gone!) we decided to tack on an additional trip, a long weekend in Berlin visiting our friend Ferdinand whom we had not seen in a decade!

We travelled on Sunday, catching the early morning flight from Toronto that lands late at night in London, with Lisa front of the bus and Christos sadly not! As we always travel light, and Lisa had an express pass for customs, we were soon whisked to our lovely hotel in Mayfair, the Langham.

We grabbed a quick pint at a nearby pub and then opted for room service dinner and inane TV before drifting off to sleep for our first night abroad.

The next morning, Lisa was up bright and early for work while Christos, still feeling the effects of jetlag, slept in till noon. While Lisa toiled, Christos started with a full service stop at the barbershop before wandering from Mayfair to Marylebone, Oxford Street and back again over three hours.

With the sun setting it was time for tea back at the Langham. Christos had his first pot alone before Lisa joined him and a second pot was brewed. After tea and a brief rest, Lisa was off to a corporate dinner while Christos enjoyed Udon Noodle soup and green tea (costing 20 pounds!) at a nearby Japanese restaurant.

Christos encountered a guitar toting busker after dinner and was treated to a personal performance of "American Pie" lifting his spirits and setting the tone for the rest of the travels. Lisa and Christas were finally reunited around 10PM after Lisa's corporate dinner was done.

The next day was fortuitous for the both of us as Lisa had a meeting cancel and while she was up early, she was back at the hotel by 10AM! We packed up our bags after two nights at the Langham and hopped in a cab to take us to our new hotel for the next three nights, the Sea Containers.

After a disappointing burger lunch, we retired for an afternoon nap (it was also a rainy day) before a walk across Black Friar's bridge over the Thames and a visit to the Blacklock City (the same brand of restaurant Christos had visited with his mom six weeks prior but a different location) for a wonderful dinner of "skinny chops" and sides. While Lisa had a full schedule the next day, that did not stop us from visiting "Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese" and the "Black Friar's pub" after dinner on the way back top the hotel, finally getting in to bed some time after 11PM.

Fortunately, Lisa's start was not as early the next day and after a hasty wakeup she still made her 10AM meeting with time to spare. While Lisa was working, Christos set off on a walking tour with the first stop being Borough Market for a yummy breakfast bun of sausage, bacon and egg. The HMS Belfast, a museum ship, was the next stop on the stroll where a full hour was spent touring (well worth the 17 pound admission price) before heading to the iconic Tower Bridge (having never actually crossed it before) to cross the Thames.

Once on the other side of the river, Christos strolled past the Tower of London (not even considering the outrageous entry fee having visited the place with Lisa previously) and set his sights on Sir John Soane's museum where he and his mom had previously managed to arrive on a day the museum is closed.

An hour or so was spent at the museum enjoying both the nooks and crannies filled with antique as well as the main show of a series of Hogarth paintings known as "A Rake's Progress".

Next on the agenda was a walk over to Fortnum and Mason's to shop for goodies for Ferd and Co in Berlin. Christos loaded up on tea and chocolates as gifts before heading out seeking a spot for dinner.

As he was in a tony part of town, Christos passed Farlows, an upmarket fishing store with tackle and tweed in the window, so he stopped in.

It was just before 6PM and the place was about to close for the day but was hosting an information session, complete with nibbles and beverages, on luxury fishing trips to exotic locales including Zambia (where First Quantum has operations) and of course Canada!

Christos bought a holiday card ("Chistmas Fishes") while listening to the presentation and after 40 minutes (and much nibbling and imbibing) it was off to find a proper dinner which in this case happened to be fish and chips at the Admiralty Pub in Trafalgar Square.

Our final full day in London (Thursday) saw Lisa working once more while Christos went out for a four hour trek through Mayfair with stops at Pre (for breakfast), Sharps Pixley (where they gave him a lovely book on gold for free), Williams & Son (seeking a replacement hat to the last one he purchased here, sadly they no longer make the style sought), the David Aaron gallery (where for a lousy 2000 pounds one could own a 1200BC statuette of Bastet!), Purdey's (more hat seeking), the Houses of Parliament (just a walk by) and finally a visit to Apsley House, once the home of Arthur Wellesley, first Duke of Wellington, and now a museum to his life and times.

With the tour complete, Lisa and Christos met up around 5PM , rested a bit and then headed off for dinner at "Indian City" which was quite good (London really is a great place for Indian food). After dinner we revisited Black Friar's Pub for a few pints before heading back to the hotel and indulging in late night cocktails as we celebrated Lisa being done work for the time being and our upcoming visit to Berlin slated to commence the next day!

We caught an 11ish flight to Berlin and met Ferd, accompanied by Lilly, at the airport.

He soon whisked us to his apartment where we had a lovely soup for lunch before taking us to our lovely hotel, the Sir Savigny, where Lisa and Christos relaxed for a bit before heading off to meet Ferd and Lilly at a local Austrian place called "Josl" where we dined on dumplings, cabbage and other Germanic goodies.

After dinner, Lisa and Christos enjoyed beer and fries at the hotel restaurant called the Butcher before finally turning in for bed.

The next day was Saturday and we made a full day of it. We met Ferd at our hotel for lunch before heading out to for a long walking tour of Berlin.

We stopped at the "Hollow Tooth" remains of the Kaiser Wilhelm Church and thought on the tragedy of the Christmas Market Massacre whose victims were commemorated nearby.

Next it was off to the Bendlerblock to visit the German Resistance Memorial Center and to see the spot where they shot Stauffenberg and several other participants in the July 20 1944 Coup attempt on the Nazis.

After the heaviness of the Bendlerblock, it was time for some lighter fare and so our final stop on the tour was the Berlin Museum which has some nice pieces but pales compared to the Prado.

After an hour at the museum it was now dark and we wandered through a darkened Tiergarten until we made it to the Brandenburg Gate . We milled about with the other tourists for a few minutes before hopping in a cab for the trip back to Charlottenburg. Having spent the day with Ferd, we opted to part ways this evening and Lisa and I dined alone at Dicke Wirtin on large portions of traditional German food such as schnitzel and cabbage. A very decent meal although certainly not amazing!

After dinner, we opted for a lovely bath back at the hotel as we had popped into Lush earlier int he day and grabbed a bath bomb. After a long day of walking through Berlin, a soak in the tub (with cold beer in hand) was the perfect way to end the day.

Our Sunday started with cappuccinos from the Cafe Aedes across the street. The cafe had once been a favoured haunt of Ferd's and a picture of Ferd from a decade ago hangs on one of the walls.

Once we were caffeinated, and with a little breakfast in our bellies, it was off to visit Ferd at his place where we had a low key day of cooking and family time planned.  Christos made a bolognese sauce, without celery as it the Germans seem not to stock it, for later consumption and we settled in to play a board game amongst the three of us. Later in the afternoon, Clara had to go to her mom's house so we said our goodbyes and Lisa and I headed back to the hotel for a couple hours rest before dinner.

Dinner with Ferd was at 7PM at a local Latin American restaurant (nothing special) followed by drinks out and much chit chat before we made our way back to the hotel for bed.

Our final day in Berlin was a wet and rainy Monday. Ferd had things to attend to during the day so Lisa and Christos opted for a limited wander and visited several antique shops in the neighbourhood; Lisa ended up buying a lovely change purse from a different era. In the evening, we met Ferd, had a couple drinks at the bar and then dined at a local German place (Ferd and Christos both enjoyed goose leg, Lisa had a less satisfactory meatloaf) before we said our penultimate goodbyes. Tuesday morning we met Ferd and Dorte in the lobby of the hotel and were driven to the airport before saying our final adieus.

London with Mom!

While this blog is devoted to the adventures of Lisa and Christos as a pair, on occasion one of the pair has their own adventures or adventures with others! In this particular case, Christos' mom (Barbara) was in England for a holiday during which Lisa had work obligations on the West Coast so off Christos went for an extra long weekend with Mom in London!

Christos arrived on Saturday morning on the bumpy red-eye flight and took the tube to Paddington Station. Given the glorious weather, it was then time for a stroll through Mayfair and other boroughs on the way to the Strand Palace Hotel, our domicile for the next four evenings.

A brief stop in Mayfair at Purdey's resulted in a lovely new Autumn / Winter tweed coat before Christos made it to the rendezvous with Mama.

After copious hugs and kisses the two of us headed out for a walk through Covent Garden and beyond to Camden for a late afternoon visit to the madness that is the Camden Market. We grabbed a pint and enjoyed the atmosphere before hopping in a cab back to the hotel. After a brief rest it was off to a French Restaurant in Soho for dinner for two. Dinner was good but not great and the escargots were definitely the highlight (not to mention the most expensive thing we had; $50 for a dozen!).

The next day (Sunday) it was off for a walk to Borough Market which unfortunately is closed on Sundays! Now that we were on the south side of the Thames, we opted for breakfast at a local hole in the wall before taking a lovely stroll over to the Imperial War Museum for a visit.

Mom had initially been reluctant to visit the IWM (military history not really being her cup of tea), but she soon warmed up to the place. It just oozes too much history and has many interactive experiences. We toured the WWII area extensively after which Christos bought a new shemag as Lisa had immediately absconded with the one he purchased on the last visit!

Then we hopped in an uber to take us across the Thames to the National Gallery. We spent a good deal of time wandering the halls, drinking in the art as best we could. Of course, Christos purchased a handful of dish towels of various famous prints. Then it was next door to the National Portrait Gallery which we once more toured for quite some time, and Christos bought more dish towels, before heading back to the hotel.

After a brief rest it was off for Sunday night roast at the renowned Blacklock in Soho. Dinner was at 5:45PM, a late seating for traditional Sunday roast, and the basement dining hall was packed with diners. After a ten minute wait with the occasional jostling we sat down and ordered the Sunday roast dinner for two.


It was amazing!!! Charcoal cooked lamb, pork and roast beef sliced up and piled high on a plate with yorkshire pudding, duck fat fried potatoes and garnish greens supporting the whole affair. I highly recommend the restaurant to carnivores in London on a Sunday night.

After a very fulsome dinner we opted for a slow stroll back to the hotel with several stops for pints and merriment on the way.

London's pub scene nightlife is European in flair and makes Toronto's bar scene look listless and weak by comparison. At each establishment Christos would have a pint of Guinness while Barbara sipped a half pint of the local lager. Some silliness may have ensued but nothing dangerous and we made it back to the hotel at a decent hour.

Monday off we went for a long (10km+) stroll to Kensington and Chelsea with the main attraction being a visit to the Victoria and Albert museum. We spent quite a bit of time at the museum before heading off on a renewed wander with stops on highbrow Jermyn Street and some shopping at one of my favourites, the amazing Fortnum and Mason.

In the late afternoon we stopped by Covent Garden and spent some time enjoying the buskers and a pint nearby. That evening we opted for excellent Indian food nearby the hotel. With our bellies full of spicy goodness we retired for the evening knowing that we had but one more day together to tour fair London.

Tuesday involved a significant visit to the British Museum as well as more wanderings including a stop at the Twinings Tea Store on the Strand, founded in 1706 as a tea house, and a quick visit to a WeWork workspace (WeWork being the business implosion story of the time).

I can't quite recall what dinner was but I do recall we hit quite a few pubs after dinner including the Black Friar, with its wonderful art deco pieces, and Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, one of London's oldest drinking establishments!

Wednesday was a shortened day with more wandering and pints before we parted, Mom for an overnight at the airport and Christos for a flight back to Toronto.

East Coasting

Christos' company had a little discovery in Newfoundland so off we flew to Deer Lake on a Sunday night for a trip to Newfoundland!

We arrived late at night, picked up our rental car and drove to Aare's for a late dinner before bed.

The next morning we awoke to a fresh Newfoundland day and breakfasted on fare we had brought from the St. Lawrence farmer's market.

We noted that Aare had stocked up on firewood, soda water and coffee in anticipation of our arrival. Even so, we still required a quick trip into town to stock up on beer and wine ....

Later that afternoon it was off for an "easy" hike on the Bottle Cove trail, one of the OBIEC trails we had hiked before.

The hike started innocuously enough with an open sunny sky and wonderful ocean views over ground we had been on before.

We passed a sign indicating a four kilometre loop hike and kept going.

At some point we may have diverged from the easy trail as we soon found ourselves well past four kilometres and the trail still going forward.

Then the ascent began and it just kept going.

Higher and steeper on a trail that was still marked but became thinner and thinner!


So we followed it and soon found ourselves in ever steeper terrain but with wonderful views as compensation (not to mention a good sweat on our bodies!).

We finally reached the end of the trail where it looped around at the top of a hill, offering more amazing views, before descending back down the way we ascended.

On the way back down we suddenly started noticing patches of chanterelle mushrooms and began gathering them up as we had steak dinner (Belgian Blue!) planned for dinner.

All told we must have found at least a half dozen patches of chanterelles and perhaps 350g in total of the fresh fungi (which sell in Toronto for around $80 a kilo) found their way into our possession and ultimately our bellies before the end of the night!

After our wonderful steak and mushroom sauce dinner it was time to partake of our other favourite Newfoundland activity, sitting by the firepit!

As the fire raged we drank beer and wine until the wee hours, indulging in scintillating conversation (or so it seemed at the time) until we were incapable of doing so any more. Then sleep.

The next day the weather was a bit cloudier, as were our consciousnesses, so we opted for a more relaxed day of board games and downtime before dinner and another round of late night festivities around the firepit, although this one more tempered by the knowledge that we were off to Buchans the next day.

The next morning it was a quick goodbye to Aare before we piled into the rental car for the three and a half hour drive to Buchans. After a stop at the lovely "Eddy's Restaurant" for breakfast and socks, we arrived in Millertown before noon and checked in at the Lakeshore Inn before Christos met Bob at the coreshack at 1PM.

Christos and Bob went out to visit the trenches Canstar had recently completed and returned to Millertown in time for dinner for the three of us at the Lakeshore Inn.

After dinner, the three of us went over to visit Charlie and Dianne (two prospectors who work on occasion for Canstar), where we all socialized for a few hours, with much conversation on the Buchans Camp and its history, before we made it back to our lodgings sometime in the wee hours.

The next morning we grabbed coffee and a light bite at the Lakeshore Inn before heading off on the road back to Deer Lake and the flight home.

Around noon we grabbed a full breakfast at Eddy's, and with the weather looking good and our flight not until 7pm, we decided that we had enough time to stop at the Alexander Murray trail for the first hike we have ever had in Newfoundland without Aare!

We cleared the eight kilometre hike in good time, including a visit to the amazing waterfall we had skipped the first time when we hiked the trail with Aare in June, and made it to the Deer Lake airport for our flight back to Toronto.

Elora Gorgeous!

A friend of Christos' was very generous and gave us a gift certificate for an evening at the Elora Mill and Spa which included a picnic hike in the Elora gorge and a beer tasting at the nearby Elora brewery! So we borrowed Alex&Sal's car and drove out on a Thursday morning to Elora, arriving around noon just as the clouds settled in!

The Mill is a lovely restored building that sits on top of a gorgeous waterfall (the Elora gorge) and provides good food and excellent service.

After checking in, we grabbed the fully packed picnic backpack they provided, adding a bottle of white wine on our own initiative, and set off for the footpath around the Gorge.

A few minutes into our hike, the rain started and we settled in to the shade of a mighty tree as most of the other hikers scampered away. Only a couple of university students remained, ensconced across the river from us in a small cave.

With the rain coming down, we decided to open the wine and realized that while we had an opener, we had no glasses!

So the university students were treated to the view of us passing a bottle of Pinot Grigio back and forth to pass the time while the rains kept us in place.

Finally the rain broke (and our bottle of wine was empty) so we headed back to the Mill for a bit of relaxation before it was off for 4PM beer tasting.

The beer was decent but nothing special but the shirts were nice so we bought them (including one for Aare in Newfoundland).

With a few brews in us we did a little shopping, Lisa bought a lovely dress and Christos bought some gift cards made of seed paper.


Next it was time for dinner, which was good but not outstanding, while watching the sun set over the gorge.


After dinner we shared some wine on our room's terrace overlooking the gorge and watched a little TV before heading off for a good night's sleep!

The next day it was lovely out and we grabbed coffee but not breakfast at the Mill before heading out for another stroll which resulted in more shopping (lavender goodies from NEOB) before we made it back to the spa for our afternoon pedicures!

With our feet refreshed it was time to head back to Toronto on a Friday afternoon for the weekend!

To Millertown and Back Again

Christos' company, Canstar Resources, is active in central Newfoundland looking for new VMS deposits and his field team is based out of either Millertown or Buchans at any time they are active.

While both towns are rather off the beaten path and most times of the year do not have much going on, Millertown hosts an annual fishing derby and Canstar is a sponsor.

Sponsorship is best served in person and so off we went the weekend of June 14th through the 16th to visit Millertown and attend the fishing derby.

We arrived late on Thursday (actually early on Friday) and crashed at Aare's place before heading out Friday at noon for the almost four hour drive to Millertown.

With only partially cloudy skies and warm(ish) weather the drive flew by and before we knew it we were at Badger, the turnoff from the TCH for Millertown and Buchans.

The drive was uneventful except for one thing; as we turned off the TCH past Badger we saw standing by the side of the road a beautiful (to a moose lover) young buck of a moose !!

Our first moose sighting in years! Of course we did not get a picture of him as he dashed off into the underbrush as soon as he saw us but it was a good omen of things to come; except for the weather.


That night we joined Charlie and Diane, two of the local prospectors Canstar works with, for a bonfire party at their place before heading off to the official bonfire of the fishing derby.

Many beers were quaffed and tall tales told. Finally, we stumbled back to the Lakeview Inn for a good night's sleep sometime after midnight.

As mentioned earlier, the drive to Millertown had been with decent weather and the weather held for the first night in Millertown but when we awoke on Saturday morning everything had changed.


Partly cloudy became nothing but cloudy skies  and rain poured down all around us.

Aare and Christos went off in the morning with Charlie and Diane to visit the Victoria Mine and other sites of interest to Canstar while Lisa recovered from the previous night's excesses.

When Aare and Christos returned to Millertown, it was time for lunch (moose burgers at $3 each served by the Millertown volunteer fire department) before the three of us headed out to tour the area.

We returned in time for the "Bobber Race", which we had quite a bit of money riding on! Alas we did not place and thus received no share of the Bobber pool but it was fun nonetheless.

After the Bobber Race, Aare and Lisa cast lines a few times to symbolically attend the Derby but much of the time was spent at the firepit of the Lakeview Inn.

Dinner on Saturday was surf and turf (steak and shrimp) at the local community center and while we did attend the "Kitchen Party" on Saturday night, the three of us were pretty beat after the previous evening's fun and a full day of activities so we ended up retiring early (just after 11PM) and hitting the sack.

We later heard from Charlie and Diane that it went until 3AM!

Sunday was the final day of the Derby and after fuelling up on coffee, we attended the Father's Day Brunch (complete with bologna over bacon, a Newfoundland tradition) and the Derby awards ceremony before heading out from Millertown in the early afternoon on the road back to Benoit's Cove.

On the way out of town, we say a bear cross the road! Very exciting for us city slickers.

We stopped off at the "Alexander Murray Trail" and enjoyed an ~8km hike which included view's of a small iceberg (Lisa's first) from the trail's highpoint.

While the weather was not amazing, it did manage to avoid raining for the hike and all three of us enjoyed hiking new ground.

The trail itself is well maintained with lots of stairs and boardwalks making it accessible for almost all levels of fitness and well worth hiking for the stunning views offered from various points.

After the hike, we piled back into the car for a much less talkative two hour drive to Aare's (we were pretty tuckered out).


At Aare's, we dined on marinated chicken and enjoyed a bonfire until some time late in the wee hours.

When we awoke the next morning the weather had changed once more and we were greeted with blue skies and sun!

Some time was spent on breakfast and birdwatching (Aare has installed a birdfeeder that attracts bluejays and other winged beasts not to mention the tiny red squirrels endemic to Newfoundland) before it was time to head off for another hike!

We opted for the nearby "Copper Mine" trail which we had undertaken twice before, although one of our previous attempts was aborted halfway through due to inclement weather.

Before reaching the trail, we stopped off at a local fish "factory" and purchased three fresh lobsters for $30 and safely ensconced them in a cooler while we undertook the hike.

The Copper Mine trail has around the same length (8km) as the Alexander Murray trail but is less groomed (ie no boardwalks/stairs) and has a greater total elevation (some 650m at Coppermine versus around 350m for the Alexander Murray trail).

The trail offers stunning views of the outer bay of islands and is one of our favourites (the only 30 minute drive to Aare's helps) that seems destined to become a regular hike for our visits to the Rock.

After a good hike, we headed back to Aare's for lobster dinner and more fireside goodtimes. Once more we stayed up until the wee hours enjoying each other's company as well as libations and snacks aplenty!

There was much discussion and analysis of the fire and fire building in general as well as pushing the fire around trying to determine the ideal alignment of burning wood ...

Tuesday was another gorgeous day and we could have opted for a hike but after two back to back hikes, we decided that a day of rest was required. Other than chainsawing some dead trees, the day was mostly filled with lounging around the house before it was time once more for the nightly ritual of the firepit and beverages.

Wednesday was our final one in Newfoundland. We visited Aare's parents for lunch before heading to the airport for our flight (via Halifax) home to Toronto.

Madrid!

The final stop on our trip was Spain's wonderful capital city, Madrid!

Our drive from Molino was the shortest of the legs so far at under two hours and we arrived at the Urso hotel where we dropped our bags off around 2PM before dropping the car off some ways away and then walking the half-hour back to our hotel.

After a quick bite and glass of wine, it was off for a 5 hour stroll / wander through Madrid on a lovely Friday evening!

We snacked at various places along the way including a Spanish omelette restaurant where we sampled the nameplate victual for the first time and found we quite enjoyed it! Some shopping was also undertaken with old time Spanish military uniform postcards as well as a (vinyl) record of Calypso from a cool local shop called "Chopper Monster" that Christos keeps calling "Chopper Whopper".

Christos also managed to whack his knee on one of the short bollard like dividers used to separate the narrow roads from the narrow sidewalks in downtown Madrid.

The next day was our final full day in Spain and our only full day in Madrid so it was a serious ground pound! The main goal was the famous Prado Museum.

We covered over 30km meandering to, through and around the Prado over a six hour period with many stops at quaint squares and tapas bars (and some shopping) on the way.

Lisa bought a pair of espadrilles and a t-shirt while Christos bought more odd old Spanish postcards and some tea towels.

For sustenance, we found ourselves popping into every second tapas bar we came upon and we popped into quite a few to sustain our trek.

The Prado took up a total of 5km of the 30km walk and while we did not see every nook and cranny, we did visit most of the museum and saw all the highlights.

It had been a decade since Lisa had been to the Prado (and about five years for Christos) so it was a very welcome refresher and we made sure to allow enough viewing time to soak up what you can only see when gazing upon an actual painting and not just its digital likeness.

After a couple of hours in the Prado (we were now at km20 of 30km for the day) it was back to more wandering, albeit a little more slowly, and more noshing as we made our way back to the hotel where we paused for a couple hours of rest before heading out into Masdrid's Saturday night scene.

The evening was filled with wandering the packed streets and much tinto de verano at various bars. Our final stop (around 11PM) was a hole in the wall restaurant we stumbled upon called El Cisne Azul which specialized in mushrooms! The well heeled madrilenos beside us ordered something seasonal and all the sudden the cook had a goose egg on the grill and shortly thereafter the egg was on a plate covered with mushrooms and truffle shavings! It fed four so we opted for the smaller hen egg with fewer mushrooms and it was delicious! We finally left around midnight and made our way back to the hotel Urso for a good night's rest before the flight home the next day.

The Sunny(ish) Leg in Siguenza!

Our drive from Uncastillo to near Alcuneza, just outside Siguenza, was a straight shot with no diversions and took under three hours. We arrived at Molino de Alcuneza in the mid-afternoon and after a quick check in it was off to the local town of Siguenza for a quick bite at a decent tapas bar in the non-medieval part of town.

After lunch we enjoyed a stroll through town before heading back to our hotel to rest up before dinner. While we relaxed, we got to watch quite a show out back as the chef chased three geese that had escaped their pen around the vegetable field out back. There was much squawking.

Molino has a Michelin Star and we tried the wonderful "Disfrutar" tasting menu which included Christos' favourite of cod with a hollandaise foam as well as an orange foam and berry ice cream dessert. We retired to our room with full bellies and high expectations as the weather had finally turned clear and hot.

The next day our high expectations were met with sunny skies and shorts weather greeting us!

After an excellent breakfast, we took a quick drive to the Rio Dulce national park where we enjoyed a 6.2km hike along a river and then up and down a cliff face (205m vertical) with spectacular views of the river and gorge down below.

Finally we were getting some of the sunny hiking we had longed for the whole trip!

After the hike, we stopped at the local restaurant, called simply "Baja", and enjoyed an expensive (66 euros) but excellent lunch of suckling pork ribs on the BBQ (so good we had to order two plates), chicken in sauce (not so much a winner), yummy salad, fries and of course beer!!

Nothing better on a hot day after a good hike while sitting in the shade playing with the restaurant's friendly and beautiful cat!

After lunch we embarked on another quick 2km hike down a trail that was still being forged near the sleepy village of Santamera before visiting Siguenza again, touring the large cathedral in silence with only a handful of other people present.

We noticed that it was a jubilee event offering a complete indulgence should one circle the whole cathedral (at which point Lisa got excited) and confessed all your sins of the last two weeks to one of the confessors and undertook mild proscribed penance such as a Hail Mary or two (at this point Lisa was no longer excited in the opportunity). We toured the town a bit more, visiting the Castle which was now a Paradores hotel, before heading back to Molino for dinner and relaxation.

The next day was a grand driving tour of Castles, Salt Mines and Romantic sites marked on a map that Molino gave us.

We started with another tour of Siguenza cathedral as we wanted to see the highlight, the Doncel of Siguenza, which was only possible as part of a guided tour twice a day.

We were fully prepared to pay the entrance fee but the cathedral was in chaos this time with several school groups and tourist groups and their accompanying cacophony. So we slipped into the crowded chapel as one group replaced another and enjoyed a few minutes with the lovely statuary before being herded out with the group as the chapel was locked.

We may have faced a scowl or two from the tour guides once they realized we were not with either group but at least we got to see what we came to see!

After a quick snack at the place across the street from the cathedral (two glasses of white wine and 5 little tapas for 6 euros; sweet!), we drove to the nearby hilltop town of Medinaceli where our bad timing (we arrived during siesta) led us to a quiet tour of its charming medieval streets as well as the impressive Roman arch from the town's founding!

Another quick refreshment and it was off to continue the driving tour with stops at various Romantic/Castle sites marked on our map.

Some of the hidden gems we discovered included the paleontological museum near Ambrona, which Lisa did not think existed until we drove up to it, the prehistoric cave near Mino de Medinaceli, which would be a tourist attraction with its ancient human carvings if it was in France or Italy, and the Salt mine of Imon (cool I guess, weird tourist spot though).

While out touring about we ended up getting caught in a flock of sheep and had to slowly navigate through them under the watchful eye of a local shepherd and his sheep dogs! The bells could drive one crazy!

One of our last stops and one of the best was the lonely Castle of Riba De Santiuste, where we encountered only one other couple on our fifteen minute hike up to fortifications.










Once we got to the top it was just the two of us with fantastic views of the surrounding countryside, complete with sheep circles!

It was quite a full afternoon!

We finally got back to Molino in the late afternoon for a much needed rest before we headed into Siguenza for a simple dinner of tapas at the local place we had visited earlier in the day, Atrio.

The Chivlaric Leg - Uncastillo and getting there

The drive from La Torre to the small medieval hilltown of Uncastillo takes about three hours but can be nicely broken up at the midpoint by visiting Belchite and Fuendetodos, both sites of historical importance.

We drove through Belchite to Fuendetodos due to a time constraint as the House of Goya's birth closes, like many things in Spain, at 2PM.

We arrived with a half hour until closing time which was just enough time for a tour of the small museum and Goya's earliest residence. Then it was back for the fifteen minute drive to Belchite.

Belchite is a town that was destroyed during the Spanish civil war in not one, but two battles. The townspeople opted to rebuild the town some ways away and left the ruins standing as a monument to the folly, madness and destruction that is war.

The ruins are now fenced in, although you can arrange a guide within the fenced perimeter if you have the time and inclination, but you can still a short walk along the fenceline and get a good view of the ruins from various spots. It is relatively quiet, we saw only four other people during our 1/2 hour there, and well worth the visit if one is near Zaragoza.

After Belchite, it was back on the road to Uncastillo where we arrived just before 5PM and had a tour of the local church and the quaint town with our host, Miguel.

We have been consistently amazed at the magnitude of the churches within the medieval Spanish towns and Uncastillo did not disappoint!

The church was a blend of romanesque, gothic and baroque styles and had a few lovely items, such as a Romanesque miter discovered when the church was renovated in the 20th century, a lovely altarpiece and a carved choir from the 16th century where academics had recently discovered the hidden signature of its creators.


After the tour it was time for dinner at "La Pastora", the B&B we were staying at for the next two nights. Dinner was simple but good. Olives with orange and anchovy, salmon with white asparagus and rice with mixed vegetables.

A wander through the narrow streets after dinner in search of an open bar was fruitless (it being Sunday night) so we opted instead for an episode of the final season of Game of Thrones before hitting the sack.

The next day we awoke to a hearty breakfast and sunny skies which was a relief as we had arranged to rent e-assist bikes for the day for a trip to the nearby town of Sos del Rey Catolico, birthplace of Ferdinand II or Aragon.

The trip, billed as biking to the middle ages, was ~25km each way and involved a pretty significant hill climb; where we discovered the joys of e-assist biking!

Normally we would climb hills at less than 10km/hour but with the e-assist we practically flew up the hills at 20km/hr!

What would have been a three hour (exhausting) bike ride to get to Sos ended up taking an hour and a quarter with the e-assist bikes.

After arriving in Sos, we were met by a local guide who took our bikes for re-charging and then gave us a tour of lovely Sos. The tour started with a visit to the Iglesia de San Esteban (including the wonderful Crypt of Santa María del Perdón, begun in the mid-11th century and a look at the 8th century Baptismal Font wherein Ferdinand of Aragon was babtized) proceeded through the Jewish quarter to the Plaza de la Villa (with a medieval standard measure for fabric etched into the wall) and other sundry medieval sites. Quite a lovely tour!

Then it was time for a yummy tasting lunch at a local restaurant that took a bit of time (many dishes!) before we were ready to hop back on the bikes for the ride back to Uncastillo.

We arrived back in Uncastillo around 6PM and were not ready to stop riding for the day so we decided to visit the local site of Los Banales, an ancient Roman era ruin of a bath complex and aqueduct.

We biked to the nearby town of Layana and then proceeded down a dirt path for around 1.5km before arriving at the baths (fenced in and closed) and ultimately at the remains of the aqueduct, a string of sandstone pillars in the middle of nowhere.

It was very cool to be the only ones there and to be able to touch and walk around the 2000 year old pillars.

After a few minutes at Los Banales it was time to head back to Uncastillo (some 15km away) where we finally arrived just before 8PM and bumped into our host at La Posada who was just about to head out searching for us having become concerned about our lack of arrival at the B&B. We grabbed a cheap (20 euros) and cheerful dinner of salad, fries and meat at a local taverna (one of the few places open on a Monday) before enjoying another night wander through the lovely medieval town before hitting the sack (this time in the now available suite of La Pastora).

The Wet Leg - La Torre Del Visco

The drive from Barcelona to La Torre Del Visco took about three hours and the day was so lovely we did most of it with the top down! We only stopped once, in the small town of Cretas for a glass of wine, before arriving at the isolated hotel in the late afternoon. La Torre is located at the end of a dirt road about 2km in from the paved road (our driving computer thought we were off-road!) in an isolated spot on some 220 acres of land. Our room looked out over the valley and while not immense, it was certainly more than enough for us.

The weather was still a lovely 24 degrees and bright so we went for a quick walk around the gardens, meeting the adorable dogs Clouseau and Azlan who took us for a (slow) walk to the local garden.

Dinner at the hotel restaurant was good but not great which was a bit of a disappointment as we had booked the place largely on the kitchen's reputation (not to mention it was not cheap!).






That night the weather changed as clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped.

Sometime in the night the rain began and was in full force when we awoke the next morning.


No matter!!

After a wonderful breakfast (they do bacon and eggs to order as well as a table loaded with goodies) and a slow start (including meeting the wonderful, thirteen year old, siamese cat Q) we took off for some touring in the area, visiting the town of Valderrobres, with its lovely medieval gate with adjoining bad, but oddly popular, restaurant next door (it was likely the price point which was low).


We also toured the local castle and church, both of which were worth the visit, particularly as Valderrobres was by far the largest town around.

We opted for dinner at the hotel again and it was once more good but not great. By the end of the day the rain was largely done although the clouds lingered ominously as the dark crept in.

The next day, after a wonderful breakfast once again, we took off before noon for a drive and tour of the countryside.

With the weather much more agreeable (partly cloudy with bouts of actual sunshine!), we were in high spirits and looking forward to our first real day of touring, which did not disappoint!

First we visited the small hilltop town of Fuentespalda, wandering through empty streets and visiting its medieval landmarks.

Next it was a failed visit to Penarroya (we drove up the back entrance and were nervous about the street size) but with a stop at the nearby wonderful medieval church with attached odd museum of agriculture (ie pork farming) by the Tastavins stream, a tributary of the Matarranya river.

Then it was off to Monroyo, once again the place feeling like a ghost town, for a visit to the Church and wander through the narrow old streets.


It was now time for lunch and Christos had made a reservation at "La Alqueria" in the small town of Rafales for 2PM. We arrived with twenty minutes to spare, admired the local Church and had mini (200ml) beers at the local bar next to the restaurant.

La Alqueria was small with only seating for twelve or so. On the day we were there, a local family had a table for eight and another couple had a table for two, basically a full house.

Lunch was wonderful! We accepted the proposition of the owner (that they choose the items for us) and it worked out perfectly. Appetizers of tuna tartare and soft boiled egg in ravioli were followed by mains of corvina and suckling pig (tiny leg and all). Dessert was opera cake and a local pistachio cake, both super yum.

All told we were there for almost three hours and before we left we made a reservation for dinner that night.

Next it was off to "El Salt" a waterfall near the town of "La Portellada". The drive in was longer than the walk from parking and the place was busy, perhaps six other people were there while we were. Still, a picturesque place to visit and a nice (albeit short) walk in.

We then made our way back to La Torre (it now being 6PM) with a quick stop for beer (for back at La Torre). As we left the parking area, we encountered Q coming down the path and he pranced towards us with a mouse in his mouth! He was quite proud of his accomplishment and made sure we noticed him as he went by before vanishing with his price!

That night it was a drive out for dinner at La Alqueria (it was about twenty minutes away) which was good but not as good as lunch (albeit cheaper than if we had dined at La Torre). After dinner we drove slowly back to La Torre, noting that a direct country road was only 6km while our main road route was 18km!

We did not opt for the country road as we had taken quite a few earlier that day and were not interested in the roll of the dice they represented at 11pm!