France - The Road Trip Week Three Yonne and Seine-et-Marne

Our drive north to our next stop, the B&B Clos Des Artistes near Turny, took us through Burgundy white wine country via the villages of St-Bris and Chablis, both of which merited a stop.

After a descent into a cellar and several above ground tastings a healthy 18 bottles found their way into the back of our car.

While some of this was earmarked for taking home, we still had a full week of holidays in France to complete and one simply cannot do so without wine!

It had been a red hot summer so far in France and the temperature remained in the high 20s or low 30s even as we headed north. Cold white wine was clearly essential for beating the heat. 

Our penultimate stay was in a small village north of Turny with very little else about other than farmland and forests which was perfect for a two day break. 

Our hostess was a chic retired marketing/design executive from Paris whose husband lived there as well but was quite busy off property and unseen by us during our stay.

Dinner both nights was at the hostess' table and was a good French meal each time. Our choices were limited as the closest restaurant was at least fifteen minutes away by car and didn't seem inspired. 

The wine was included and freely flowing (always a positive) and chat over dinner with our hostess lively and erudite.

We visited Turny and a couple of the other villages but most of our full day was spent on a long walk through the woods nearby the B&B. 

With our recharge done, it was time to head to our final stop on the French adventure, a lovely VRBO in the countryside near the town of Dormelles. 

On our way we stopped by at the ruins of an old abbey where a restorer was working on local made bricks from more than a century ago. 

He was quite surprised to have visitors and happy to tell us about the place and his work. Christos translated as best he could but the conversation was solely in French so a bit was surely lost in translation.

After that, Christos poked around on google maps and discovered that a craft brewery was nearby so off we went to the amazing discovery of the Crazy Hops brewery. 

The brewery is located out in the countryside and initially appeared more like some sort of farm rather than a brewery. 

While Lisa was skeptical (no signage etc), Christos prevailed and after bumping into one of the workers managed to get a hold of the owner/manager. A case of assorted beers was purchased as well as various stickers and labels to act as keepsakes. 

We also stopped in Fontainebleau to stock up at the well known local farmer's market before the short drive past the village of Villecerf to our wonderful oasis in the woods. 

The VRBO was run by an older couple, he being a retired somewhat famous sculptor while she being an accomplished psychiatrist, and consisted of their house (with his studio), a shared pool and the nearby two bedroom guesthouse, a converted barn, where we stayed. 

There were a couple of other buildings nearby but it was truly a rural setting and during our five day stay there we often saw deer and wild hares at the edge of the woods adjoining the property. 

Our first night was the two of us but the next day we drove into Fontainebleau to pick up Ferdinand who had flown in from Berlin! 

Ferd stayed with us for a long weekend and we had a good chance to talk and reconnect with him. After many hugs and the drive back we had a wonderful BBQ dinner and stayed up talking while enjoying white wine on a hot summer's eve.

Saturday we did some tourist touring with a visit to the charming medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing including a stop at the delightfully small Musee du Velo. We lunched nearby a hotel where Napoleon had spent a night during the Hundred Days and saw a cannonball lodged in the gate tower from a past siege. 

While touring on our first day, Christos had noticed a sign for the annual village party at Villecerf posted along a road happening the Saturday we were there. So of course we had to attend! 

The plan was to prep all the dinner ingredients and then pop by the party from 7ish to 9ish as three live bands (Improbables, Couleur Pop and Jamm'd)were scheduled to play from 7pm to 10pm with a DJ to follow. It did not work out quite as planned. 

We did all the prep and headed down to the party around 8ish but things were of course running late and the first band was still on stage when we arrived.

So we hung out, drank some beer, talked to the locals and listened to the first band's set. We noted that the festivities were well attended and engaged in quite a few conversations, Ferd ended up in a conversation with the town's deputy mayor for some time. 

It was also clear from the number of Jamm'd t-shirts worn that they were the most anticipated (at least from the organized fan perspective) of the bands so of course we couldn't miss them!

It was just before 10pm (although still light our, yeah summer evenings in France) that Jamm'd came on and they really jammed! Mostly covers of classic rock tunes and played with vigour, love and skill!

Of course we didn't get back to our VRBO until just before midnight and we ended up engaging in late night BBQ antics. 

Sunday was spent resting and recovering from the previous night's debauchery. We made a brief voyage into town for supplies, where Ferd bumped into the deputy mayor again, and spent the rest of the day poolside and chatting with our hosts. At one point Ferd was so engrossed in chatting with our hosts that we had to go get him for dinner!

After breakfast, and Ferd's packing up, on Monday morning it was off to visit to Fontainebleau to tour its famous royal chateau before Ferd headed back to Berlin on the afternoon flight. 

We stopped at an ancient Dolmen for a quick photo opportunity before arriving at the bustling city for the hour and half tour of the chateau. 

It is certainly worth the visit for the building alone as well as some of the lovely Napoleonic (and other French royalty) relics and spaces.

We don't get to see Ferd very often and it is always a good thing when we do. We bid him adieu at the train station and hopped back into the car for out final night in France.

On our way back to our lodgings for our final evening in France, we stopped off at a local megamart outside of Fontainebleau for some final dinner shopping. 

To our stunned amazement, we saw a car fire in the parking lot just as we drove up. We parked our car quite a ways away and watched as flames sprouted up from the vehicle. 

We passed some anxious people in the mall, who were likely fire fighters, heading towards the burning car with great speed. When we returned from our shopping the fire was out but and the car was a write-off.  

We had a final BBQ in the French countryside and a good night's sleep before heading off to CDG the next morning for the flight home.

France - The Road Trip Week Two Haute-Vienne, Allier and Nievre

We arrived at our VRBO, a small but complete cabin supposedly in the woods but really in some woods near the road, in the late afternoon after a full day of touring and after some time relaxing, as well as a cold glass of white wine, we were off to nearby St Junien to dine at the local hotel restaurant which seemed to cater to men of the working class and served a decent, if unremarkable, steak frites. There is not much to see in St. Junien but we tried to see it, wandering around a bit before and after dinner.

Back at the VRBO it was time for more wine, some tele followed by a good night's sleep. The next day we did not have much to do as we had already visited Oradur-sur-Glane (the primary reason Christos had brought us here) but we did have one major site to see; the Agnelle factory outlet store in St Junien! 

Agnelle is a maker of high end leather products with a focus on gloves. They have been worn by such luminaries as Madonna, Beyonce, Lada Gaga and even Melania! 

We arrived at the nondescript building in downtown St Junien and were soon admitted by the store minder, a lovely older French lady who spoke very little English. She led us up to the second floor where a small room was dominated by bins by size of pairs of men's gloves on one side and women's on the other. Other leather goods such as purses and small bags adorned the walls. We chatted a bit and she was quite pleased to learn we had come all the way from Canada to see the store.

A quick look earlier on the web suggested pricing that meant only one pair of gloves each but we soon realized that the factory store was about 40% off! 

With this new information in hand we ended up buying two pairs of gloves each for a very reasonable 240 euros. The shopkeeper threw in two small zippered bags as gifts. What a wonderful experience! 

Then it was off to shop as we planned to eat at home that night. We visited the local grocery store (not our favourite as we prefer farmer's markets) and were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the product. France really does have good produce throughout. 

Returning to the VRBO in the afternoon we opted for more relaxing with some crafting thrown in before preparing dinner. 

Although we had no BBQ at this VRBO, we opted for pasta with fresh vegetables accompanied by salad and of course the obligatory wine. 

The next day saw us back on the road heading east with our first stop at Saint Leonard de Noblat where we visited the lovely cathedral and bought some wonderful dried goods (nuts, mango, ginger) from an African shopkeeper of incredible good cheer. 

Then it was back on the road and a visit to the town of Borganeuf where Christos had hoped to visit Cem's Tower (which had housed an Ottoman Prince) but sadly it was closed until later in the day and we had places to get to. 

In the late afternoon we finally arrived at our destination, the amazing Zone Bleu located in the sleepy farm village of Hyds. 

Christos had booked Zone Bleu without really knowing what to expect and it was one of the pricier places we stayed this trip (although not outrageous by any means). 

It had seemed a bit odd to find a highly rated B&B deep in the French countryside and quite off the beaten trail but it was truly a gem. It is a lovely old farmhouse restored with care and attention to detail by a husband and wife couple from Denmark and Holland. 

He is gregarious and personable, running the front of house with charm and good humour while she is always diligently preparing something for guests. 

Chickens and a lovely dog roam the grounds and the interior oozes old world charm (complete with candles on the super wide staircase to the second floor). The basement houses a cellar full of local wine which we soon sampled.

Our suite had a lovely king sized bed with a gorgeous ensuite washroom and an anteroom room with two wingback chairs with furs facing a fireplace and a small table. We didn't think we would use the anteroom much but we ended up loving it for late night TV and early morning coffee. We stayed only two nights but could have stayed a week. 

Dinner the first night was a planche of meats, cheese etc prepared for us by our hosts and was perfect after our day on the road. After a lovely dinner, we wandered the grounds for a bit enjoying the rural idyll before heading to our room for a little TV in the anteroom, cold white wine and finally bed in our luxurious king bed which enveloped us.

As we were only in Hyds for two nights, the next day was local touring with a visit to the village of Herisson which although not a Plus Beaux Village certainly is on its way to becoming one. 

We wandered the small medieval core, shopped at the local farmer's market and enjoyed lunch at an odd restaurant (nachos in France?) before heading to the church and the local ruined castle for a tour and some photos. 

After a hot day touring it was back to the Zone Bleu for pizza night! It seems a local pizza truck makes a circuit of the local villages on Friday nights offering various types of freshly cooked pizza and it is quite popular with the locals. 

The pizzas were quite good and a nice change from French food as well as quite reasonably priced compared to eating out.

After our two nights in Hyds, it was time to head to our next destination, a small cottage near the village of Chevroches. We purchased a half dozen bottles of the local white from our host and were soon off to visit Saint-Pourcain-sur-Sioule for the weekly farmer's market. 

After stocking up for the next three nights at the farmer's market, we enjoyed a quick lunch at one of the local restaurants (where one can eat food from the market so long as you bought a beverage) and were on the road around noon. 

We stopped to visit the town of Nevers with a visit to the Ducal Palace as well as a wander through the medieval core. As it was June 21st, also known as Fete de la Musique in France, we noticed quite a few bandstands etc being set up even though the afternoon heat was excessive. 

With the tour of Nevers complete, we made our way to the Domaine Des Carriers where we had booked the Maison Des Compagnons, a small stone cottage with a wonderful view, BBQ etc. The only challenge was it was a bit small (cosy?) and with no AC and with the oppressive heat it was quite hot in the upstairs loft/bedroom. 

After meeting our charming young host, we settled in and found out a bit about the area including the town of Clamecy just down the road where tonight there would be some live music although the big excitement would be a bit further afield in Auxerre. Clamecy was also the closest place to shop and as we needed charcoal for the BBQ so off it was to Clamecy for a little provisioning.

The late afternoon into early evening was spent lounging at the cottage and discussing whether we would go into Clamecy for the evening's festivities. 

Eventually it was time for dinner on the BBQ and by the time that was done we decided to just take it easy and relax with some cold white wine at the cottage instead of having to drive into Clamecy for live music. 

That night was quite hot and restless for the two of us; the small size of the cottage coupled with the heat was just too much so the next day Christos arranged to have us moved into the Sculptor's Apartment, which was both more spacious and much much cooler, for the next two nights. 

As it was now Sunday and we were tired from the previous twenty-four hours, we opted to relax rather than tour for the day. While the Domaine is only a short drive from Clamecy, it is otherwise quite isolated with no shops so it was to our benefit and wonder that around 9AM on Sunday the bakery truck showed up with fresh bread! 

The Domaine's allotment was dropped off and Christos negotiated the purchase of some fresh bread from the bakery truck operator. It was still warm and of course wonderful. 

This meant we did not have to leave the grounds for the day so we did some laundry, watched some TV, dipped in the pool and generally loafed. 

Dinner was once more on the BBQ and we used the same one from the Maison des Compagnons as the new one was very dodgy! 

After a good night's rest, we were ready for some touring the next day so off we went to visit the village of Vezelay with its stunning Basilica complete with jaw dropping central portal and supposed relics of Mary Magdalene!

A lovely place and well worth the visit although the shops leading to the Basilica are quite touristy. 

After our visit to Vezelay, our next stop was the village of Bazoches, or more accurately, the Chateau de Bazoches, which was home to Vauban, a famous nobleman and military engineer of 17th century France. 

The chateau is a wonderful and impressive building evocative of the wealth of France's 17th century aristocracy filled with old portraits, genealogy wall murals, the odd piece of armour and other bric a brac of the past. 

The full tour, including a visit to Vauban's richly appointed apartments, took about an hour and was worth the ticket price. 

On the way back to the Domaine, we popped in to Clamecy to make a full tour of the medieval core including the local church and we also stopped in one of the few shops open on Monday, the delightful Chez L'Houme where Christos bought a shirt (with snails on it) and Lisa bought a bag emblazoned with the town's name on it. 

After the Clamecy tour was done, it was back to the Domaine to relax, prepare another lovely BBQ dinner and get ready for our departure the next morning. 

France - The Road Trip Week One Aveyron and Lot and Dordogne

Our road trip began in Beziers on a holiday Monday (apparently Whit Monday. who knew?) which of course meant that our rental pick-up was delayed so we ended up leaving Beziers a little late but no worries as we were soon making good time with Lisa at the wheel. 

Our first stop was the fortified medieval village of La Couvertoirade where we wandered about for a bit  enjoying the medieval vibe and purchased some post cards and other goodies for Christos' growing craft pack. 

After that it was on to the lovely small city of Rodez which was pretty much as quiet as could be given that it was a holiday Monday. 

Sadly no postcards etc were purchased even though we could see some wonderful ones in a store that was closed but we did manage a tour of the one thing open, the lovely and amazing cathedral. 

We would end up seeing quite a few amazing cathedrals on our drive through France!

Then it was back on the road arriving at the charming cottage we would call home for the next two nights located just outside of the town of Entraygues-Sur-Truyere which is a bit off the tourist path and just what we love. 

It is a small town at the confluence of the Lot and Truyere rivers right on the border between the departments of Aveyron and Cantal. The town possesses a lovely medieval core as well as a beautiful stone pedestrian bridge from the middle ages.

We dined at the delightful Quai West on the riverside, wandered around the old town for a bit and then hopped back in the car for the five minute drive to our place for an evening of late night television and wine in the yard and the summer heat. Quite lovely. 

The next day we took it easy with a trip in to town, lunch at the Quai West, a short hike along the river after lunch (but my it was hot) and some shopping for dinner. We picked up a lovely piece of steak at Bax-Gombert as well as some veggies and salad fixings before heading back to our cottage for some laundry and relaxing. 

We finally had the chance to make our own dinner after more than two weeks and it was a simple but wonderful meal of steak and veggies on the grill accompanied by a hearty leafy salad stuffed with lots of veggie goodness. 

If you order salad in a restaurant in France it inevitably comes with more than lettuce and veggies; the French seem to think a salad lacks substance if not anchored in a protein like chicken or cheese. We prefer ours as big wonderful veggie feasts. 

After dinner it was another evening of summer heat, white wine and a little television in the yard. Some sort of giant June bug joined us for TV, landing on one of the unoccupied chairs, and we decided it was best not to bother it and live and let live as it were.

After our two day break near Entraygues-Sur-Truyere it was time to head to our next stop, a bed and breakfast near the village of Cajarc. Off we went after a hearty self-made breakfast of egg on toast,  something we had been missing since our arrival in France!

On the road, we stopped at the amazing Conques, an ancient pilgrim stop on the Camino, to visit the Abbey Church of Sainte Foye as well as the Treasury with its hoard of wonderful reliquaries and other religious objects. 

So much gold and so many precious gems, all to hold some old bones!

After Conques, it was lunch time so we stopped in the town of Figeac for a snack and a quick tour of the old medieval core of the place. 

Finally in the late afternoon we arrived at our place of refuge in the countryside and were heartily welcomed by the two Irish owners. 

Our suite was on the top floor of the old manor house with our bathroom in the round tower. Very spacious and lovely although Christos did have to be aware of the beams in some places.

On our hosts' recommendation, we had dinner in town at a local restaurant, Le Nauti'c which did quite a good steak frites! 

The next day it was off for a tour of the local area with a visit to the town of Villefranche-De-Rouergue where a lunch of chicken, bread and fruit was procured at the farmer's market followed by a trip to the lovely village of Najac for a cold beverage, a tour of the small local museum and then a hike up to visit the remains of the Royal Castle. 

The Abbaye is a secluded medieval place which was almost destroyed during the revolution but had been saved and protected as a historic monument in 1942 and recently converted into a modern art gallery as well as amazing event space (the main hall of the Abbaye was a cavernous, vaulted wonder). 

When we returned  we had the luxury of lounging under the awning in the garden and watching TV as the rain came down until late in the night. Unlike the previous night, we were th eonly guests staying at the B&B that night.

A few other tourists were there including an annoying Instagram family as well as a bevy of French school children so when the castle opened at 3PM we made sure to stagger our visit behind theirs.

The castle was well maintained and well presented. After paying our entry fee, we clambered up staircases, through various rooms with their information placards and down a "secret" passage from one area of the castle to another all the while enjoying the amazing views of the village and valley from various spots within the castle and on the ramparts. 

Najac is definitely worth the visit and a medieval France highlight for us.

After a good hour or so tour (and much money spent on postcards etc) we hiked back down to the village, hopped back in the car and, after a bit of meandering, popped in to visit the Abbaye De Beaulieu-En-Rouergue. 

We finally made it back to the B&B in the late afternoon after a very full and wonderful day of touring the countryside in the summer heat. 

We tried to eat at the same place as the night before but it was fully booked so we had to settle at the last minute for another local place that was not as good. C'est la vie. 

For our second day of touring we opted for a less onerous voyage so after a lazy morning we started with a drive to the nearby small village of Espagnac St Eulalie for lunch at a local restaurant that our hosts had suggested and which was quite lovely. 

After lunch we visited the prehistoric caves at Pech Merle which had been adorned with images of animals by our ancestors more than 20,000 years ago before being sealed up until rediscovery by a trio of children in 1922. 

Only small guided groups can go in and the tour is 45 minutes and no more as only a few people can be in the cave at any one time in order to preserve the paintings. Quite an amazing visit.

Our next stop was the quaint and charming village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie  which is wonderful to visit albeit a bit overrun by tourists and a bit too filled with artist studios hawking various wares for our liking. 

We returned in the mid-afternoon to the B&B and relaxed a bit before having a dinner of home made duck with a big lovely side salad and vegetables, all served in the garden of the B&B as there were now four other guests (it being Friday night). 

The next morning it was time to depart and as our next stop was a VRBO with a grill, we also had the job of provisioning on the way. 

Fortunately, we had done our homework and determined that the town of Cahors was not only on our way and worth a visit but also hosted a Saturday farmers' market. 

We stocked up on provisions as we planned to self cater for the next three days and toured the town for a bit under cloudy skies, making sure not to miss the famous medieval bridge at Cahors, before hopping back in the car to continue our drive to our next stop, a VRBO in the countryside just outside of the charming town of Sarlat.

Our spot near Sarlat was small but lovely. The hosts were nearby in the main building, far enough away that we had our privacy but close enough that if we needed anything it was not far to go. The converted barn was cozy and had just enough space for the two of us while outside we had a lovely garden with a view out across a valley into the woods. Every evening we would hear the animals (mostly birds) of the woods call out their bedtime songs before it would suddenly become silent with the darkness of night.

It was also lovely to be fully provisioned for three days with yummy steak and other goodies. We certainly love French food but restaurants can be hit or miss and cooking for ourselves really is a pleasure so long as good ingredients can be sourced and good tools are at hand. The BBQ at the VRBO was of the simple round charcoal variety but perfect for our needs. 

After settling in and cooking a wonderful BBQ dinner, we enjoyed the coming of night woodland avian symphony before heading to bed once darkness had fallen.

Our first full day in the Dordogne was a Sunday and it was rainy. As such we opted for a relaxing day with no touring but rather laundry, TV on the laptop, crafting and dining. By mid afternoon it had cleared up a bit and we could hang our laundry to dry as well as enjoying some cold beverages in our garden patio. 

Dinner was once more meat on the BBQ and as always accompanied by a giant salad. The evening was listening to the dusk symphony of the woods before a little laptop TV before bed.

The next morning started with a homemade breakfast of egg on toast and coffee accompanied by fruit before heading out for a full day of touring. We visited Sarlat, famed for its foie gras (and geese) and picturesque medieval core where we dropped off a bunch of mail for friends back home before a wander through the charming, but very touristy, town. 

After Sarlat we toured a trio of Les Plus Beaux Villages De France; Domme, La Roque Gageac and Castelnaud, each offering a different tourist treat.

Domme is a wonderful example of a fortified town, or bastide, created by royal decree in the middle ages to serve as an extension of royal power. Situated high on a hill, it offers wonderful views of the surrounding territory from the town ramparts as well as a picturesque small medieval core (with few modern buildings). Quite charming and done in less than an hour. 

Next on the list and a short drive away was a twenty minute stop and stroll at the lovely riverside village of La Roque-Gageac although we did pass on a climb up to old troglodyte caves above the village. Quite a lovely place carved into the side of a cliff and with the river running by.

Finally it was another short drive to visit Castelnaud, another small cute medieval village looking over the river and complete with a wonderful castle to tour. We spent a good hour at the castle and a quick wander through the village.

After a full day of touring, we were back at the VRBO in the late afternoon to enjoy some relaxing, crafting and dinner before a good night's sleep.

After three nights in Dordogne, it was time to head to our next destination, a VRBO near the town of St Junien in the Haute-Vienne department. 

As it was a drive of only around two hours we opted for some touring on the way with a visit to the village and Abbaye de Saint-Amand-de-Coly where we explored the lovely church (odd interior with second level galleries), bought some vegetables from a local farmer at an "honour pay" table and also purchased a small stemmed bowl from a local artisan we have decided to use as a salt cellar back home (it stayed safely wrapped for the trip). 

Then it was off to tour some more with a visit to the Chateau De Hautefort which lasted more than an hour. The Chateau is a lovely 17th century building overlain on an older medieval castle (traces of which remain) that offers a good tour as well as an excellent history of the chateau from its heyday in the 17th century under the Marquis de Hautefort, a favourite of Louis XIV, the tragic fire of 1968 that almost destroyed it and up to the modern day as setting for films such as Ever After, while still remaining in private hands and serving as a private residence (well a portion of it anyway). 

Our third stop on the way was the memory center and village of Oradour-sur-Glane where a heinous WW2 massacre was committed by the Nazi SS. It was a poignant and emotionally charged visit. We stood in the ruins of the church where hundreds of women and children were killed by mostly young men who apparently believed they were working for the greater good. It was particularly poignant given what is going on in the Levant at this time.

After about an hour at the remembrance site we finished our day of travel and touring, arriving at the small VRBO cottage we had booked for the next two nights.

France - Five, becomes Eight, Days in the Saddle

After our soft landing in Toulouse, we were on the road for the next while, sleeping in a new place every night for the next eight nights. 

We had booked a six night bike trip, including pre-booked hotels, starting in Carcassonne and ending in Sete from a tour company based out of Beziers, a town at the midpoint of the tour. we began the bike tour at famous Carcassonne, about a 1.5 hour train ride from Toulouse. 

It was a hot Friday of a holiday long weekend in France when we arrived in Carcassonne and the place was a zoo!  

Carcassonne is a popular day spot for French (and other) families to visit and a holiday weekend in June apparently makes it even more so! 

The quaint medieval streets of the small town were jammed with people of all ages and after a cursory tour we retreated to our hotel and then dinner at a restaurant outside the old town. 

That evening we went back to the old town and it was magical to wander the now mostly deserted streets (the majority of families apparently being day trippers) under a clear sky. 

We stumbled upon a walled in enclosure hosting an after hours party and quickly hurried on, preferring a cold drink in the shadows alone on the outer battlements watching the occasional wandering tourist down below on the paths in and out of the town.

With drinks done, we returned to our small hotel just on the cusp of the old city and squeezed into bed. 

The next morning we met the new owners of the Bike Tour company and they gave us our bikes. We chatted briefly and exchanged pleasantries before heading off to ride the Canal-Du-Midi until its terminus in the Etang de Thau. 

Bike riding along the route of the canal is magical. The path is clearly marked, car free and generally flat. Most of the time the canal itself is on one side of you as you ride under the cover of ancient oak trees (planted before Canada was a country) that serve as a guide to the canal's path. 

Many leisure craft, from live aboard house barges to smaller power boats, float languidly along the canal's calm waters and are only occasionally spurred into a frenzy of action when it is time to use one of the many locks which are the foundation for the canal's placid waters. 

We rode along the canal for about 40km until reaching the quaint canal-side village of Homps in the early afternoon. 

After a cold beverage in the local bar (the Rive Gauche) we wandered about for a bit and then relaxed at the wonderful B&B the tour company had booked for us. 

That evening we went to Le Foudre, the local restaurant, for the first of many steak & frites dinners which were good but certainly not cheap at 32 euro each!

After a good night's sleep and a decent breakfast the next morning we hopped on our bikes for the next stop, the small city of Narbonne. Narbonne is an ancient city and possesses quite a wonderful medieval core of castle and cathedral built adjoining each other.

It happened to be the first Sunday in June when we arrived in Narbonne during the late afternoon and as such the museums were, apparently by French custom related to primary Sundays, open! 

How lovely for us as we visited the very cool Horreum, a series of underground chambers linked together by several tunnels built during the Roman era as storage areas and forgotten about for many centuries.

After the Horreum we visited the local Cathedral which, in addition to housing a small episcopal museum (again free!) and a cool chamber of whispers, has the unusual aspect of having not been completed due to changes in the city's fortunes during the Middle Ages. 

While the museums were free, it being Sunday also meant that some restaurants and stores were closed so our experience of the city was a bit muted. Dinner was at a good restaurant near the cathedral. 

Our third stop on the bike trip was the charming little city of Beziers, the hometown of Paul Riquet architect of the Canal Du Midi, where we stayed the night on the main street (allee Paul Riquet) at the decent if unassuming Imperator Hotel. It was a holiday Monday, so even more quiet than a Sunday, and we wandered the shuttered streets and opted to do some much needed laundry. Dinner was at the wonderful Spanish tapas restaurant Pica-Pica. Nice to have a non-French meal and the food was top notch.

Our final day along the canal was a ride to Marseillan, a fishing town on the Etang Du Thau. Once more a glorious day's ride along the canal. We stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast with a charming garden hidden behind an unassuming street door not far from the port but were disappointed in dinner that night as there seemed to be no seafood restaurants open yet. 

Perhaps we were a bit early in the season or perhaps we did not look hard enough but we did find a closed oyster bar and closed fish restaurant ... 

In any case we tried the local oysters at "Le Moment Gourmand" and sadly were disappointed given our oyster snobbery. 

Mediterranean oysters simply lack the gravitas of Atlantic ones. We moved on to dinner at a traditional French place and it was decent if not overwhelming.

Technically had only one day's ride left (to Sete) but Christos had a chat the prior day with the new owners of the bike tour company and they quickly agreed to an extension of our rental by three days for a mere 100 euros. 

As such, they agreed to pick up our bags in Marseillan and we would ride on to Sete, Meze, Pezenas and back to Beziers to drop off the bikes, living out of panniers for the next few days. 

Christos had tried to negotiate a similar deal with the original owners of the company but as they were trying to sell the company, they were not interested in selling off menu items. We were fortunately the first clients of the new owners and they were happy to have one day's less work, a little extra cash and happy clients. 

So off we went from Marseillan with panniers attached towards the coastal town of Sete. We had a lovely ride along the causeway of beaches that forms the barrier between the Etang Du Thau and the Mediterranean before arriving in the "Venice of Languedoc" in the late afternoon and checking in at the Grand Hotel de Sete. 

We meandered over to Les Halles where Christos purchased a seafood platter and Lisa procured the drinks for a late lunch. After lunch we toured the lovely city for quite some time before taking a break back at the hotel for a couple hours. 

Christos spied a local t-shirt company called Bad Georges across from our hotel and purchased a t-shirt.  After talking with the proprietor he visited a local chandlery the next morning where he purchased a custom made Bad Georges shirt for the Setois Marina. 

Dinner was a poor choice by Christos as we wandered for a bit but did not find anything we liked; so Christos settled on a local bar and their mediocre mussels. Ah well, they can't all be winners. We had a couple drinks after dinner and wandered along the main canal before heading to bed.

After our night in Sete we were no longer on the original bike trail but the way to our next stop, Meze, was pretty simple and bike friendly. We followed the inner coast of the Etang Du Thau until we reached Balaruc-Le-Vieux where we stopped for lunch at the absolutely wonderful Chifoumi. 

Lunch was a sublime tabouli to start (we both thought it the best tabouli we had ever had, perfectly balanced and seasoned) followed by a steak tataki served on top of a sweet potato mash. Not too French, quite simple and marvellous. One of the top three lunches of our lives! 

After lunch we continued on towards Meze with a brief wrong turn taking us down to the waterfront. 

The waterfront path turned at some point into an inland bike trail and we arrived in Meze around 3PM, finding the B&B we were staying at to be without hosts so after a brief chat with the owner on the phone we headed back to visit a roman villa/farm near Loupian that had some wonderful mosaics as well as a good overview of the ancient settlement. 

We got back to our B&B around 5ish, checked in and then headed down to the port to look around. We made a reservation at a fish restaurant on the water and headed back to the B&B to relax before dinner.

In the early evening we headed down to the port for a sublime fish dinner at Le Bistro del Mar  while watching the sunset. 

After dinner we wandered around the old town for a bit, looking at cats and buildings when Christos noticed some music coming from the open door of a large building. 

Ever adventurous, we decided to find out what it was and to our great amazement it was the local (mostly seniors) tango club practicing a night of dancing! 

One of the members invited us in to watch and soon Lisa was swept up by the president of the club who insisted he teach Lisa the tango. In the meantime, the lovely widow Genevieve made small talk with Christos that only later was determined to be of possible propositional intent! 

This particular day, with a great ride, Chifoumi, Bistro del Mar, a wonderful sunset and the Tango encounter was probably our favourite day of the trip. It also happened to be Baba's 86th birthday. 

Our penultimate day of riding was next with a turn away from the water inland towards the town of Pezenas. 

On the way to Pezenas we stopped at Valmagne Abbey, a lovely medieval space that was saved from complete destruction (although it did suffer somewhat) during the Revolution when it became storage for wine. 

The abbey also produced its own wine and had a restaurant serving food from the gardens on-site as well as hosting an intriguing photography exhibit of abandoned places with derelict pianos. All very cool. 

After touring the abbey, we opted to skip lunch at the abbey restaurant as it was not quite noon, preferring to head out to Pezenas via the back roads of farmers' fields with the goal of lunching there. 

We arrived in Pezenas after a fair bit of meandering through countryside in the mid afternoon and  checked in at our hotel located just across a dry canal from medieval Pezenas. 

With bikes and bags stowed we crossed the dry canal into the heart of the town and soon found a lovely spot for a lunch of quiche and assorted side salads. 

Pezenas has a charming medieval centre and the old buildings are filled with artists' boutiques, cafes etc. It is a popular vacation spot for the French and other Europeans but not really on the radar of North Americans. 

We found the studio of the artist whose works were at Valmagne and purchased a smaller one (8.5 by 11) of his prints. 

Friday night dinner was a French classic, steak frites at a lovely local place called Aux Bon Vivants. 

Our final day in the saddle was a return to Beziers once more through the back roads of farmer's fields and other small paths. 

We dropped the bikes off at the tour company's office and checked into the wonderful Hotel Particulier for Saturday and Sunday nights. 

Dinner Saturday was once more at Pica Pica and sadly we did not enjoy it as much as we had previously as the service was a bit off but the Patatas Bravas and Pimiento De Padron were still super tasty. 

Sunday was of course sleepy but we had a wonderful brunch at the nearby Arlett Cafe Cycliste followed by a slow day wandering in the town with occasional breaks back at the hotel until dinner at the lovely Maison Carne which pretty much specialized in one thing; steak! 

They also had an interesting method of serving wine; from a large bottle at your table and by the inch/glass!

Monday morning we picked up our rental car, after a brief wait as it was not yet ready, down at the train station and hopped in for the next leg of our adventure ... The Road Trip!

France - The Landing

Our trip to France started with a bit of a bump. A few hours before our flight was set to depart, we received a call from Air Canada informing us that the (direct to CDG) flight had been cancelled and that we could either fly via Montreal that day or fly the next day direct from Toronto. As the Montreal option also included a credit and got us there at the right arrival time for our connection to Toulouse we jumped at it! The flight was a bit discombobulating with the three hour layover in Montreal and a late meal service which meant not a lot of sleep. 

In any case, we arrived at CDG the next morning slightly rumpled but otherwise fine. A two hour wait and then on to the next flight, arriving in Toulouse around 4ish. 

We took a cab to our modest downtown hotel and after dropping off our bags opted for a stroll about town with a visit to the Cathedral and the University district as well as the river side. After a break back at the hotel, Lisa opted for an early night in bed and a skipped supper as the flight had weakened her while Christos went out for a quick dinner of cassoulet at a local restaurant.

The next day, after croissants and coffee, was a wander through Toulouse complete with small purchases such as socks for the upcoming ride, cards and stickers for the craft pack and a stop at the Barbour shop where Christos procured an excellent summer travel hat. A wander through the lovely Jardin des Plantes was also accomplished. We tried in vain to sell some gold at a local dealer, he wanted a 15% discount as it was not a coin/ingot he usually dealt in! I suppose Bitcoin truly is the future! Dinner that evening was at a restaurant on the crowded Place St. Georges. So far neither of our dinners had been what we were hoping for. After dinner we wandered around a bit before having a few drinks at Place St. Georges which provided excellent people watching opportunities.

The next day we wandered the city, watched a parade and visited the wonderful Capitole. For our third and final night in Toulouse we stumbled upon the restaurant Terra Tolosa, just around the corner from our hotel but missed for the last two nights, in the afternoon and came back in the evening for a lovely dinner. Finally a decent French meal!

While we enjoyed seeing a new city and being in France, the heat (around 30 degrees Celsius at the end of May) was a bit much and we were anxious to start the less urban part of our adventure. On Saturday morning it was on the train to Carcassonne and the next leg of our French adventure!

Costa Rica - Four Days and Five Nights on the Green Mountain!

 As is now policy if possible, a holiday for Lisa's birthday was arranged and while New Orleans was on the radar (loved it last year, short flight, English spoken), this year our destination ended up being Costa Rica as we were able to book flights on points! 

We opted for a week in country, arriving late at night and staying at the airport hotel and leaving early in the morning, facilitating another night at the airport hotel, with five amazing nights at El Sol near Monteverde! 

The flight down was on Rouge with five and a half hours of uneventful travel and us opting for boxed dinners from home (sandwiches and other cold snacks) rather than take the risk with airplane food. 

The next morning after a short adventure finding our rental car we were on the road before noon and off on the three hour drive to Monteverde. 

We arrived in the mid afternoon and checked in at El Sol before heading in to the nearby town of Santa Elena. 

Our cabin at El Sol was amazing! Down a gravel path from the parking lot to a secluded spot, the cabin consisted of a large bedroom and kitchenette, a wonderful bathroom with a shower that had views down the valley and a deck with a small hot-tup and large netting from which to relax and enjoy the view and the sunset.

The town of Santa Elena is about a half hour drive down a road of variable quality, with some parts fully paved and lit while other patches were gravel bathed in darkness (of course much more relevant at night).

We parked in one side of the triangle that makes up the three main roads of the downtown and wandered about a bit and after a little provisioning it was back to El Sol for dinner and relaxation. 

Dinner the first night was steak at the cabin, cooked by the young owner Javier. We had asked for a large salad and he did not disappoint. 

We watched the sun set, sipped wine spritzers and listened to the jungle before it was time for bed with a little TV first.

The next day was our first full day in Monteverde and we awoke to a blue sky, a green vista and a full sun. 

After a wonderful breakfast in bed (sausage and egg for Lisa, egg and bean like the locals for Ctos), we lazed about a bit enjoying the space, Lisa particularly loving the giant hammock off the deck, before heading into town for a bit of sight seeing.

This time we went past "downtown" and visited a local coffee shop, Stella's, a bit further down the road. The coffee was excellent (far better than the drip coffee at our cabin) and the setting very pleasant. 

After that it was off by foot to the adjacent Bat Jungle for the short but well worth the US$5 each visit. 

Where else can one listen through ears to hear like a bat and see so many bats up close from behind glass in the darkened bat cavern? 

We were treated to the bizarre but wonderful experience of watching an upside down bat relieve itself via two successive giant arcs of projected waste product! 

Then it was off to the local brew pub for lunch and a sampler of the local beers. All quite palatable and Ctos considered a beer shirt purchase before being reminded by Lisa that he has far too many t-shirts already. 

While out driving we saw a group of excited tourists by the road who were watching some capuchin monkeys in the trees. We stopped and excitedly watched them too. 

We made it back to El Sol in the late afternoon for a little relaxation and a wonderful sunset before a 7:30PM dinner at a local hot spot whose name escapes me. 

Dinner was mediocre and expensive. A tour group had been seated just prior to our arrival and we were overlooked for most of the evening. Ah well, they can't all be winners. Then it was back to El Sol for a nightcap and some deck TV before bed.

For our second full day we had a morning tour scheduled at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve so we were up early and at the meeting point by 9AM. We were both excited to be there and well prepared with binoculars and rain jackets. After meeting our guide and a few other tourists off we went for the two and a half hour tour. While it was enjoyable, we barely saw any wildlife other than a Tarantula that had been living in the same cave for several years and a Blue Throated Toucanet high in a tree. 

It was a walk through a wonderful locale in a light rain and we stopped often for our guide to extol the virtues of the Costa Rican approach to environmental stewardship while describing a local plant or tree.

After the tour we went to the local cafe just outside the Reserve for a refreshment and where a hummingbird area has been set-up with feeders to attract them. 

Very cool with masses of different kinds of hummingbirds darting too and fro. We also spotted what appeared to be a kinkajou as it darted off into the woods. 

After the refreshments the tour was done but Lisa and I were not so we headed back into the reserve for a wander along the various trails for a few hours. 

We didn't see much wildlife but we love a wilderness wander and the forest itself is beautiful. By mid afternoon it was time to head back to El Sol with a brief stop to provision. 

This evening we ventured into town to another restaurant, "Morpho's" which was decent local fare if unexciting. Food options in Santa Elena are limited.  

After dinner and the drive back to El Sol, we spent some time on the deck watching a little TV on the laptop and once more enjoying late night wine spritzers before bed.

Our third full day started with another glorious breakfast in bed looking down the valley which led to us taking it easy for much of the day relaxing at El Sol. 

A brief drive into town to get bread and good coffee from Stella's where we saw a lovely motmot as well as visits to local artisans (we bought nothing) ensued but we were back at El Sol by mid-afternoon and otherwise it was very low key day. 

For the evening we opted for a 6pm to 8pm "Night Walk" through another Reserve on the mountain. We arrived to find that it was a very busy affair with several five or more tourists in a group led by a local guide. Unfortunately, our group was us and a family from France so our guide, while bilingual, tended to explain in many words of French and few of English. We muddled through.

Nonetheless it was a wonderful evening walk through the woods with the highlight being the sighting of a sloth and her baby moving through the forest canopy.  

We made it back to El Sol around 8:30pm for a lovely chicken dinner prepared by Javier. Our best meals at Monteverde definitely came from El Sol's kitchen. 

Our fourth and final full day had absolutely glorious weather and after another wonderful breakfast (this time pancakes for Ctos) we decided to visit the Curicancha Reserve during the late morning and afternoon for a long unguided stroll along its various paths. This day was our best for animal spotting with an encounter with a group of white nosed coati at the park entrance!

During our three hour wander through the park we saw quite a few birds including more lovely blue motmots, a glimpse of a large crested guan and another toucanet, this one less than 2 metres away!

By 3PM we were back at El Sol and ready for more relaxation. We were gifted with a wonderful afternoon (shorts and t-shirts, well in our case mumus) and an amazing sunset shortly before dinner served again by Javier (back to steak and salad). 

The next day was the day of departure but after another amazing breakfast we lingered until early afternoon, with Javier's permission as he had no turnover that day, enjoying more beautiful weather before hopping in the car for the three hour drive to the capital, San Jose. 

We arrived in the early afternoon and after dropping the car off and checking in to the  airport Hilton, we wandered to the Alajuela neighbourhood nearby where we stopped for a lovely late lunch of octopus and tuna carpaccio and mixed seafood ceviche. 

The seafood was amazing and we decided to come back for dinner in a few hours. On the twenty minute walk back to the Hilton, we provisioned some lovely bananas for the next day's flight at a cost of a dime each! 

After a rest, we strolled back to the seafood restaurant for dinner and as there was only one other table taken it was quite a romantic atmosphere. We both opted for octopus (done different ways) and it was freshly delicious! Our only regret was we could not eat more! 

After a nightcap at a practically deserted local bar we made it back to the hotel for a good night's sleep prior to our 9AM flight back to Toronto.

We loved Costa Rica and El Sol was truly amazing but the overall pricing in country was expensive and the food at Monteverde was lacking.