Adventures

Friday, June 29, 2018

Newfoundland working time

The mercury was rising in Toronto and our sylvan lusts grew stronger as the time for our annual pilgrimage to Newfoundland neared! 

With Christos working for a Newfoundland based mineral exploration company, he decided to combine business with pleasure and went out to St. John's 36 hours ahead of Lisa to meet with other mineral companies active in Western Newfoundland. 

Christos then arrived in Deer Lake about 12 hours before Lisa where Aare picked him up and they drove to Buchans, Newfoundland.

Buchans was once a prosperous mining town but with the closure of the mine in the 1980s, the town has shrunk from around 3000 to somewhere north of 500 residents today. Many of the buildings are abandoned and the town has a run down feel to it. 

Christos spent a couple hours at Buchans meeting, first meeting with Mines and Energy folk with whom he toured the old pits, looked at core and chatted about the history and current affairs of the town. Christos then visited with a geologist from another resource development company currently active in the region and discussed their progress as well as general levels of exploration activity in the region. 

On the way out of town we spotted the local Mining Museum (clearly marked by the Asarco firetruck) and decided to investigate. The place was housed in an old residential home and nobody was there but the door was unlocked so in we went and for the quick tour. 

It was evident that Buchans was once a prosperous place and that hard times had come from the mine closure.

Aare and Christos left Buchans at around 6PM and while we had a three hour drive to the Deer Lake airport to meet Lisa, we still had a few hours to kill so after a quick dinner, we drove to Fleur de Lys at the end of "Iceberg Alley" and Christos saw his first iceberg! It was very exciting! 

We left Fleur de Lys an hour before darkness and drove to Deer Lake where Aare and Christos spent a couple of hours in the "Big Stop" before picking Lisa up at the airport at 1:30AM. Then it was the hour and a bit drive back to Aare's where we enjoyed a nightcap before hitting the hay.





Wednesday, April 25, 2018

Summer in Paris in April!

Our extra long weekend in Paris began with Lisa and Christos meeting up in CDG airport on Thursday morning and then a cab to our hotel in the 9th. In the past we stayed on the Left Bank (in the 6th) but it was time for a new venue.

Our hotel for this trip was the lovely Hotel Adele and Jules which serves an excellent breakfast and is close to the action of Paris but being on a side street is somewhat insulated from the city's noise.


Although Christos had not slept much on the flight over from Toronto (while Lisa was already acclimatized having been in Zurich on business prior to arriving in Paris), that was not going to stop us!

A couple of coffees and a quick shower later, we headed out for a bit of a walk. The weather was glorious with summer like conditions (blue skies and 27 degrees) and the streets were filled with smiling people.

We had a quick lunch and made it down to Notre Dame and briefly over to the Left Bank (the only time we visited it during the weekend) and 6PM pints of Guinness back in the 9th before getting back to the hotel in the early evening.

While energy levels were low, we knew we had to stay up until dark in order to make the change to Paris time ... we had the best of intentions (ie no drinks) but theses were quickly overcome by the convivial atmosphere at a local bar where we drank white wine and chatted with the locals until after sunset.

A fulsome dialogue was had at the bar regarding the French language focusing on the use of swear words and colloquialisms ... we are now well versed on the use of the word " putain " or simply " 'tain ".

With fatigue starting to creep in, we got back to the hotel around 11PM where we quaffed a bottle of Chablis while sitting on our deck listening to the clamour and bustle of Paris on a gorgeous Thursday night. A strong start to the weekend given the jet lag et al.

The next day we barely made it down in time for breakfast (service ends at 11AM) before heading out on a massive groundpound (as we call it). All in all, we were out for about six hours and covered around 13.5km of the 9th and the 2nd.



We stopped at "Les Halles" (where we munched on food we had bought the previous day at Rue Des Martyrs), passed by the "Centre Georges Pompidou", investigated the six hundred year old "Tour Jean-Sans-Peur" and enjoyed a brief walk along the Seine before passing through a portion of the outside of the Louvre and the Jardin Nelson Mandela.

After relaxing with a bottle of Sancerre on our deck at the hotel, it was off for a visit to Sacre Coeur, always a hot spot on a Friday night. We enjoyed a brief stop for steak frites at a local brasserie and made it up the hill just before 10PM.

We soon had cold beers in our hands as guys walk around selling 250ml Heinekens for 2 euros each or 3 euros for 2; about $5 for two small, well-chilled beers served stairside!

After hanging out and drinking our way through a half dozen mini-beers (the vendors certainly are persistent!), we floated back to our hotel, with a couple stops for wine along the way, finally getting back sometime after midnight with another 5.3km loop walk under our belt!

We then stayed up, sitting out on our little deck drinking more wine and chatting (mostly about how awesome Paris is) until late into the night!

Saturday started late but amazingly with no hangovers! While we had imbibed a tipple too much on Friday night, in our wisdom we also had the good sense to drink lots of water before hitting the sack. Nevertheless, we did not manage to get out of the hotel until afternoon and Lisa skipped breakfast for more time under the covers.

On our previous night's trip through Montmartre to Sacre Coeur, the brasserie we dined at was just off Square d'Anvers and we had noticed many (commercial) vans parked nearby and a banner for a farmer's market for the next two days so of course we decided to start our day with a visit to the market and it was great!

We shared a duck burger (OMG so yummy), and bought some foie gras and little ham stuffed pastries, before heading off to the nearby Montmartre Cemetery.

Our primary goal was to visit the grave of the famous singer, Dalida and after wandering through the cemetery for twenty minutes, we finally found it.

Not only was it lovely, it was almost overwhelming. Most of the cenotaphs and graves of the cemetery were bare and some even dilapidated but Dalida's was still festooned with fresh flowers and the monument  itself (the sun/halo emanating from behind her) was also very powerful.

Dalida is still a popular figure in France who after a life filled with professional success but personal tragedy, died by her own hand in 1987 at the age of 54.

After forty-five minutes in the cemetery, we started to head back towards our neck of the woods but stopped off at the Musée national Gustave Moreau which is devoted solely to the works and times of Gustave Moreau and is housed in his home.

While not all of his works are either of our cups of tea, several pieces were and the experience as a whole was wonderful.

The small lower rooms that he once lived in appear today as they were at the time of his death in 1898 while the upper atelier is an expansive space covered in his works.

Christos particularly liked "Jupiter and Semele" while Lisa favoured "The Mystic Flower".

We spent about forty-five minutes at the museum before beginning the final leg of the day's walk and arrived back at our hotel in the late afternoon.

Another bottle of wine, this time a lovely rosé, was consumed while relaxing in the shade on our deck with clear blue skies overhead and twenty-six degree weather.

At 8PM we went for dinner at the excellent Friends&Family, which was just around the corner from our hotel. The meal was superb; we both devoured the white asparagus for starters and for mains Lisa had the steak (of course) while Christos had the fish.

After dinner we went back to our hotel with the intention of enjoying a cold beer on the deck before getting an early night but it was not to be! We downed two beers on the deck and decided we had to go out again for "just one more drink".

It may have been the coffee we had at dinner (in fact it probably was), but our early night turned into a late late of mojitos, copious pints of Guinness and dancing in a meat market pub (where most patrons were half our age) until well after midnight!

On Sunday, it was back to the Farmer's market at Square d'Anvers for more goodies, both for the flight and some to take home. We also grabbed a lunch of duckburgers and fries!

As we started to make our way home we encountered a rubbish bin overwhelmed by the previous night's festivities!

We wandered the streets for about two hours, window shopping and admiring the sights, getting back to our hotel in the mid afternoon.

With a weekend of walking and drinking behind us down time was required and we opted for a couple hours of vegging with some TV before heading out for dinner at 8PM.

Dinner was at a nook in the wall wine bar in the 2nd called Le Denicheur that had a limited but quite good menu. The veal tataki and trout tartare were very good. With an early wake up for our 11AM flight the next day, plus it being a Sunday, we decided to skip a final night out drinking and got to bed early (and sober!).

The next morning we felt a chill in the air as the weather turned back towards normal and we left Paris knowing we had been blessed with Summer in April!


Tuesday, April 3, 2018

Flights booked!

Ten years ago we had a weekend in Paris with results that are not surprising ...

We drank, we danced, we sang and while my memory fails me slightly, I suspect we were hung-over!

Will history repeat itself? Stay tuned!

Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Newf Time!

Let me be clear, we love Newfoundland! But only in the summer !!!!!

We arrived on Thursday June 29th in the late afternoon for an extra long Canada Day Weekend with our favourite Estonian, Aare, and his lovely cat, "CC".

Aare has a bungalow in Benoit's Cove with a lovely seaside view. Our first evening was spent catching up over drinks and a yummy dinner of roast pork loin.

Friday started with a hearty breakfast including both bacon and sausage (true decadence) before it was off to the Coppermine trail for a lovely hike in the afternoon followed by a playtest of Sons Of York on Friday night.

Saturday we drove to Gros Morne in the morning and stayed overnight at Terry's B&B in Norris Point. On the way, we stopped at the Wiltondale flea market where Christos procured a pair of $5 camouflage army pants.

We hiked Burnt Hill (in Norris Point) on Saturday afternoon and enjoyed a lovely beach side walk before devouring BBQ steak with (recently picked) morel sauce for dinner!

We had big plans to hike on Sunday (a nice 10km route) but inclement weather changed our plans and we ended up driving back to Benoit's Cove in the mid afternoon.

Dinner was yummy fish and chips from the nearby place that we had discovered the prior year.

Sunday night was spent playing two matches of "Castles of Burgundy", a fun board game into the wee hours over copious beers.

At one point we went out for a break by the water but the day's wet weather (and a few beers) resulted in Christos going down off Aare's accessway into the ditch (and mud).

No injuries were reported.

After a bacon filled breakfast on Monday morning, we opted for a drive to the nearby OBIEC supported trails near Lark Harbour to work off the fat!

We ended up doing two lovely hikes including our now much recommended Bottle Cove trail.

The weather once more held for us and both hikes were wonderful.

Neither was too long (just under two hours each) and the views offered were stellar.

As always, our local guide Aare knew what agenda was right for all three of us.

Tuesday it was time to return to Toronto, although not until later in the day.

We finished off the last of the breakfast goodies we had brought and then lounged at Aare's place playing board games until the late afternoon.

An uneventful drive saw us get to the airport for an uneventful but safe flight back to Toronto late on Tuesday night.


Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Normandy - La Ferme Des Isles

Our next destination was the charming Ferme Des Isles located near Autheuil-Authouillet. We arrived in the late afternoon after a drive with a pit-stop for wine and calvados to be greeted by the charming Francois and Sylvia.

After a tour of the grounds and our room we met the Farm's domestic animals; two dogs (Jet and Dirty) and two cats (Gremoulin and Glowee) and both of us fell in love with them all.

After a chance to clean up and enjoy a beverage we headed off to a local restaurant for a very good dinner before returning to the Farm for a late night tipple and relaxation
in the garden.

The next day was a day of touring and rather than the normal dynamic duo this time we were a Terrific Trio!








The other guest at the farm was Ai, a young lady from Japan who was visiting France for three months but did not drive and spoke only a little English and French. Our host asked us if it would not be too much trouble to take her along should we go out touring and so we obliged.


We hopped in the car and drove off to Vascoeuil to visit the sculpture gardens and chateau.

It was well worth the visit as the sculpture gardens hold some very interesting pieces, the little museum to Michelet was quite cool, and the exhibition of the artist Roland Cat was fascinating.

On the way back we stopped for a crepe lunch (noting that the diminutive Ai has no trouble packing back the French food) and a visit to the ruins of Chateau Gaillard which was unfortunately closed for a visit but still accorded amazing views of the Seine.


Then it was back to the farm for some relaxation before enjoying a lovely dinner (salmon tartar being the star of the night) with our hosts and other guests (including Ai).

We enjoyed white wine and then calvados as the sun set on our last night in the Norman countryside.


After dinner, we all went off on a walk around the property with the dogs. It was a lovely stomp through the field of hay to the side of the little stream that runs through the property and then back to the farmhouse.

Our two nights at Ferme Des Isles were wonderful (albeit a bit hot in the non air conditioned room) and the hospitality of our hosts was exceptional.

We left Normandy having only seen a fraction of its treasures but excited to see Paris after a five year hiatus and on a night like no other!



Sunday, June 18, 2017

Normandy - Juno Beach and La Pommeraye


We left La Louviere after three wonderful nights and headed to our next destination, Chateau  De La Pommeraye near Clecy, Calvados.

A detour to visit Chateau d'O (sadly not yet open for the season) and the Tiger Tank at Vimoutiers added a bit to the drive but we didn't mind as driving in the French countryside is a treat when the weather is as perfect as it was.

Before arriving at our B&B we also stopped for a lunch of moules mariniers at an odd roadside restaurant.

Being the only patrons there (there had been a few others but we arrived late) we ended up chatting with the little old lady that ran the place.

Inevitably she hit it off with Christos and ended up giving him a record of Pierre Spiers, of which she had a stack of perhaps a half dozen for sale at 2 euros each, as a parting gift.

We also popped into a small Calvados producer that had been in operation since 1769 but was just a family business. Inevitably a bottle came home with us.

We arrived at our next B&B in the late afternoon and booked dinner at the Chateau. Dinner was very good with wonderful grilled shrimp, (superb) scallops, risotto and (of course) cheese followed by an after dinner calvados for Christos.

As there were few guests and Alexander the manager (owner?) liked Canadians, he upgraded us to a suite!

The Chateau and grounds were simply lovely and idyllic with tame horses nearby, a walk along a "roman road" to a nearby ruined castle (we opted not to enter as it was undergoing excavations), a fish pond, gorgeous common rooms on the first floor filled with art and books, rooms with amazing views, nearby tame horses and the calm serenity of the country.

The next day we headed off to visit Juno Beach, the site of the Allied landing in Normandy on June 6, 1944.  Juno Beach had been stormed by (amongst others) Canadian troops and it was quite a costly landing. We visited the museum and then toured an old German fortification, part of which had only been uncovered in 2010.



After the moving experience at Juno Beach, we headed to Bayeux to see the famous tapestry as well as the lovely cathedral followed by a wander through the quaint old town.

We made it back to the B&B with enough time to rest a bit before it was time to head to nearby Pont D'Ouilly for dinner we had the best meal of our entire time in France! It was in fact one of the best meals we have ever had ....

The restaurant was the Pomme D'Ouilly and Lisa started with foie gras (superb) while Christos had a parsnip veloute with bacon and raspberry (!?) that was amazing. Lisa had an amazing cut of beef with a wonderful spicy sauce while Christos had five lovely scallops served with a side of mashed celery as entrees. Desert was a wonderful poached pear for Lisa and a two mousse chocolate cake for Christos.

We stayed up late sitting by the Chateau's fish pond drinking wine, chatting and listening to the sounds of the countryside before retiring to bed and watching a little "Rick and Morty" on the iPad until we both drifted off.

The next day was a Sunday and we opted for a visit to a nearby lookout and hiking park called Roch D'Oetre.

The view from the rock was stellar and the hike down into the ravine, along the Rouvre river and then out into the countryside before arriving back at the start was a wonderful 6.7km, 2 hour trek.

After a brief lunch of fries and beer (water only for Lisa) we decided to do another small (1.8 km) hike down into the ravine and back out.

Finally at 5PM we attended about a 1/2 hour of a concert given by a Anglo-Rock Duo known as Potlatch. Quite fun but we had to get back to the B&B with enough time to freshen up and rest before dinner so we could not stay for the 2 hour event!

We arrived back at La Pommeraye for a bit of relaxation before our 8PM reservation at a different local restaurant called La Gavotine (as Pomme D'Ouilly was closed this evening) where we had a wonderful meal. Christos started with the home smoked salmon which he loved so much that he ordered a take away portion for lunch the next day! Lisa started with escargot, a French classic. We both had the slow roasted pork with potatoes, veg and gravy. All very rustic and excellent stuff; perfect after our day hiking in the sun!

Then it was back to La Pommeraye for another evening outside with wine before retiring to bed in preparation for the next day's drive east towards Paris.






Thursday, June 15, 2017

The Norman Invasion - La Louviere

We arrived in Paris on a sunny and hot Tuesday morning after an uneventful overnight flight from Toronto. Given our ten day time frame we had decided to only take in Paris at the end of the trip so we hopped in our rental car (Madame White) and started the 3 hour drive to our B&B near Alencon in the heart of Normandy.

We arrived shortly before our expected check-in time so we had a quick drink at a local bar while waiting to enter the grounds of the lovely La Louviere.

The property is a large walled in garden/woods complete with a duck pound, an outer cottage and several romantic resting spots to wander to as well as the restored 18th Century large farmhouse.

Our charming hosts welcomed us in and showed us to the lovely suite we had booked. After a quick tour of the gardens, the amiable ancient retriever Venus (pictured) soon became our friend (she is a sucker for belly rubs) although the cat Shadow remained unseen until the second day.

After a chance to clean up and rest for a bit it was off to Alencon for dinner at the Rive Droite, a restaurant located in the same building that General LeClerc used as his HQ during the liberation of France in 1944! It was then back to La Louviere for a good night's sleep in the countryside.

Our next day was a tour of Alencon including a visit to the musee Des Baux Artes et la Dentelle.

La Dentelle is "lace", a product Alencon was famous for beginning in the 17th Century. The museum also housed a small but lovely collection of paintings as well as a section devoted to Cambodia during its domination by the French.

While we had both been skeptical of how much we would enjoy the lace exhibit, it was actually quite fascinating as neither of us had realized the level of intricacy and work required to make the pieces. An intro film whetted our appetite to see the museum's pieces of lace from the 17th and 18th centuries and they did not disappoint!

We made it back to our B&B for a little relaxation by the pond and in the room before we had dinner at La Louviere with two other couples who were staying there. It was a tasty dinner of gamecock poached in cider (a product Normandy is famous for) as well as all the usual French trimmings (salad to start, cheese plate etc). Unfortunately Lisa was still not fully acclimatized to France and could not get through much of dinner (Christos did manage to finish her fowl, mind you).

The next day we toured the area and visited a local Bicycle Museum that had a significant section dedicated to the Tour de France.

The museum had bikes and jerseys from famous Tour de France participants as well as a portrait gallery of every winner. Interestingly, the portrait of Lance Armstrong still hung on the wall but with a black X marked over it!

That night we had dinner in nearby Saint Ceneri Le Gerei, one of the 200 prettiest villages of France.

Dinner was yummy, we shared terrine to start followed by magret for Lisa and beef for Christos. After dinner we enjoyed a walk through the lovely village before heading back to La Lauviere for our final night before heading to the Calvados region within Normandy.