Paros - Seaside Fun!

We arrived in Parikia, Paros on Monday afternoon and after a short wait were met at the port by our VRBO host who drove us the less than 15 minutes to our residence for the next three days, the top floor of his house located about a half an hour walk from the beach town of Naoussa.

Our lovely new spot had a magnificent view out over the bay on one side and to the hills on the other. The next closest house was a good 60m away and there were not many within eye range so it felt quite private. 

We were about a 5 minute walk to a local bus station to take us into Naoussa proper along the main road or we could opt for a 40 minute walk along a dusty back road to approach the town from a different way. 

Once we had settled in, we opted for the back roads walk into Naoussa for our first visit to this very interesting town. 

Naoussa is an old fishing village that has been transformed into a modern tourist beach resort. It is much more upmarket than Ios, almost on par with Santorini, with high end boutiques filling the charming, narrow, winding streets as well as a slew of restaurants (fish primarily) along the old wharfside. 

It is a charming place with the typical white washed buildings, small churches with their blue domes tucked away around corners and of course cats sharing it all with people! Very laid back but upscale vibe.

We toured about for a few hours and bought some pastries before taking the bus back to our place for a little rest before heading back in to town for an excellent dinner (branzino) at the fish tavern "Mare Nostrum". 

Before heading back to our spot for the evening we stopped off at the wonderful bakery, Ragoussis, where baclava was acquired. 

The next day started with a quick hike after breakfast up to an old monastery about 20 minutes up the road. It was closed and an old man nearby told Christos (in Greek) "Nobody there anymore" and that the keys were in Naoussa if we wanted access (far too much trouble). 

Ah well, it was a good hike and it offered amazing views out over the island to the sea.

After a pit stop back at our place we hiked into Naoussa for another day of wandering about, shopping and relaxing as well as organizing a rental car for the next day. 

We opted for a different dinner experience and decided on Rada, located just outside Naoussa in an area called Agioi Anargyroi where several high end self-contained resorts have been built. 

Dinner was wonderful with amazing tarama, fish carpaccio, octopus and salad all done amazingly and as plays on Greek food rather than traditional Greek food (think California meets Greece?). 

All the other patrons were Americans likely staying at the resort and the staff was very surprised whren Christos spoke Greek. 

The view out on the beach was amazing and delivered a wonderful sunset although when darkness came so did the cicadas and they were both plentiful and huge! 

Some of the other patrons were a little put off but we are familiar with them from our time on the yacht so many years ago.

Our second full day and final day in Naoussa we opted for a tour of the island by car having rented one the previous evening for a 24 hour period. We visited a wild animal hospital but even though Christos had communicated with them prior to our arrival there was nobody there when we arrived. 

No biggie as it was only 10 minutes from where we were staying so on to the next spot, the Logovarda Monastery which was open but only to men! 

So Lisa had to wait outside while Christos got a quick tour and history from one of the few monks remaining. Fortunately, some of the men associated with the monastery offered Lisa cold water and a place to sit while waiting and of course once the tour was over we were offered sweets and raki! Gotta love a shot of 11AM raki! 

Then it was off to the picturesque village of Lefkes where we parked, toured the lovely village and then embarked on the awesome "Byzantine Trail", a 1000 year old path, much of it tiled with marble, between the villages of Lefkes and Prodromos. 

The trail is about 4km each way and while we were alone most of the time we did pass a few other hikers. One descends to Prodromos so the views out over the sea are quite stunning in places. Of course one sees the odd goat and donkey along the trail as well reminding you that some things don't change that much!

We were hungry and thirsty by the time we got to Pordromos and we found one of the two restaurarants in this sleepy town. Lunch was at the "Byzantino" and was quite good traditional greek food including octopus in a red sauce with pearl onions and ice cold beer and white wine. 

Then it was time for the hike back (uphill!) with an almost diversion at an icon factory (it was just a bit too far down the road). 

We wandered around Lefkes a bit and Christos ended up buying a small olive tree statue made in bronze (taking our count to two of these) and passing on a cast bronze octopus at the scarabee workshop. 

Having had a full day touring we then hopped in the car and started driving home when we opted for a last minute stop at the Moraitis Winery for a tasting of three white wines. A nice forty minute diversion and all the wines were good so Christos bought a bottle of one of them for later consumption. 

We had another small pit stop at home before dropping the car off back in Naoussa and taking another long stroll through the village. Christos ended up convincing Lisa on a lovely linen top and bottom from the Kori boutique. 

Then it was off to see the ruins of the castle in the port (providing wonderful background for selfies; see the cool shot of Lisa) before a second dinner at "Mare Nostrum" which while good was not as good as the first night. Lesson learned, no repeats!

Once more dessert was procured at Ragoussis (as it was all three nights in Naoussa) and devoured back at our spot. 

The next morning our host gave us a lift into Parikia, the port of Paros, where we had arrived three days earlier and where we now had two nights booked at the charming, albeit simple, "Hotel Livadia" located right on the town's beachfront. 

Parikia has a very laid back, not high end, feel to it. It has a stretch of seaside hotels and restaurants as well as its own beach (Livadia) and hosts a major port for the Cyclades islands. It certainly had a similar vibe to the port at Ios but much larger and more touristy. 

We wandered around the first afternoon with a visit to the 1700 year old church of Panagia Ekatonapiliani, where votive candles were lit, as well as some shopping (fun postcards like the acropolis made of watermelon) and general sight seeing before having dinner at the Parea restaurant just up the street from our hotel.

Dinner was a break from fish and consisted of fava puree (getting a lit bored of it), local sausages and meatballs in tomato sauce (both yum!). 

That evening after dinner we spent some time on the deck of our small hotel room enjoying drinks and TV, a usual practice of ours this trip as it seems we are no longer interested in the night drinking scene!

The next day was our final full day on Paris and we spent it with a trip to the wonderful Paros Archeological Museum, getting alternating manicures and pedicures (such a wonderful treat after almost two weeks on the road), another visit to the Panagia Ekatonapiliani (votive icons were bought and offered) a little shopping (see a typical storefront where we bought our friend Aare a souvenir) and more wandering before taking a break and getting fresh for dinner.

The museum was quite lovely, neither of us are as keen as we once were on museums as we have seen a lot of them (particularly Greek ones back in the day) but it had been a long time and it was not expensive (3 euros each) so why not! 

The museum was by no means large, which is a blessing if you ask us, but did have several wonderful pieces such as the Gorgon of Paros, the larger than life statue of Artemis (of the thick soled shoes), the tiny plump Fat Lady of Saliagos statue as well as lots of other wonderful pieces. 

It was just enough to keep busy for about forty-five minutes; our ideal amount of museum time. After the museum it was time for some grooming!

Lisa had decided she wanted a mani/pedi and we found a salon where she was quickly booked in for the 45 minute treatment while Christos wandered the town a bit more (buying postcards etc) and then when Christos came back to pick Lisa up it was decided that he needed the same thing so he was booked in a little later in the day (hence time for another visit to the church first). 

Dinner was at the locely "Little Green Rocket" where we had a wonderful green leafy salad (a rarity in Greece) and fresh sea breem cooked French style in parchment paper (delicious and different!). 

Dessert was once more sourced at Ragoussis as the store has several outlets on the island of Paros. 

The next morning the hotel proprietor gave us a life to the port just a stone's throw away but a sweaty walk with luggage! We soon boarded the ferry headed to the third of our five islands, Naxos!